Earlier this year Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman honed a
partnership with the first ascent of Vitalogy (AKGr5 M6+ WI5 5.9 R
A1, 4,600') are joining up again this Fall in Nepal this time with
'The Future' Hayden Kennedy. On October 15th the team will embark
on the seven-week expedition. After acclimatization in the Khumbu
area the team will ascend 6880m Expedition Peak Ama Dablam via the
SW Ridge trade route and maximize our acclimatization. With the
remaining time (3-weeks) they will return to the unclimbed faces of
the of the Gokyo Valley. The main objective is Kyoja Ri, at 6187m
it is a striking peak with several lines ranging between technical
rock, mixed, and ice lines. At this point Mark will depart Nepal
while Graham and Hayden will meet up with Cory RIchards and head to
the North Face of Chamlang. Chamlang is an overlooked giant that is
nestled between the Khumbu and Barun Valleys. Its unique position
is sandwiched between Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and the Kantega
Massif,making it both incredibly alluring andremote. The North Face
rises from the Chamlang glacier offering approximately 2,000 m of
virtually untouched and unexplored terrain. The projected line
follows a series of incipient mixed features that hug the central
pillar on its right side. The climbing promises to be continuously
spicy, mixed and technical terrain. The team intends to approach
the face in a single continuous push that will last anywhere from
four to seven days. They will fix no lines and bring no bolts. The
line embodies everything that a modern alpine climb can sustained
sections of steep technical terrain, high altitude, and virgin
terrain in a very remote region of the Himalaya.
