Expedition Mountaineering 12 Month Advanced Training Plan
This 12 month training plan is designed for advanced climbers and mountaineers or those training for high altitude expedition climbs such as Denali, Mount Vinson, Aconcagua, Mt. Elbrus, Cho Oyo, Everest, Ama Dablam, or other peaks above 7000 meters.
UNDER CONSTRUCTION!
Jump to:
Week 1,week 2, week 3, week 4, week 5, week 6, week 7, week 8, week 9, week 10, week 11, Month 12
Note: This plan assumes an intermediate-advanced level of fitness at month 1 and based on opinions and experience of other climbers. You should consult a physician before starting an exercise program. Mountaineering can be dangerous especially high altitude and expedition climbs. We don't recommend climbing without an experienced and reputable guide service.
Month 1:
- Focus for this week is on building strength, balance, and a base. This will help prevent injury later.
- For strength training work on your techniques and motion.
- Ensure a good warm up and cool down to prevent injury.
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Week 1 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
30 min Cardio @ 60% AvgMHR Run, Bike, Swim, or other. |
1 Set of 10 reps of the following: Step ups front Step ups side Step downs Push Ups Crunches Plank Mountain climbers |
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Tuesday |
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Rest Day |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
20 min Cardio @ 70% MHR |
3 sets of following: Squats (15) Step ups front (40) Step ups side Left and right (40) Step downs (40) Push Ups (10) Crunches (50) Plank (60 seconds) Mountain climbers (50) |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
40 min Stairs @ 70% MHR 20 min walking |
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Friday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
30 min Cardio @ 70% |
3 sets of following: Squats (15) Step ups front (40) Step ups side Left and right (40) Step downs (40) Push Ups (10) Crunches (50) Plank (60 seconds) Mountain climbers (50) |
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Saturday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
2-3 hr walk or hike with 15-20 lb pack |
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Sunday |
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Rest Day: Review knots and/or equipment |
Week 2:
- Continue building strength, balance, and a strong base. .
- Increase the number of reps for strength training.
- Increase the intensity of aerobic activity.
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Week 2 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
30 min Cardio @ 70% Avg MHRRun, Bike, Swim 20 min walk |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
20 min cardio @ 70% Avg MHR |
45 minutes of weight training or yoga |
Balance exercises |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
40 min stairs @ 70% Avg MHR |
3 sets of following: Squats (15) Step ups front (40) Step ups side Left and right (40) Step downs (40) Push Ups (10) Crunches (50) Plank (60 seconds) Mountain climbers (50) |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
30 min Cardio @ 75% MHR |
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Balance exercises |
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Friday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
30 Min cardio @ 60-75% Avg MHR |
4 sets of following: Squats (15) Step ups front (40) Step ups side Left and right (40) Step downs (40) Push Ups (10) Crunches (50) Plank (60 seconds) Mountain climbers (50) |
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Saturday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
3 mile run or 15 mile bike or 1000 meter swim |
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Sunday |
Rest |
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Review knots and/or equipment |
Week 3:
Continue shift from strength training to emphasis on aerobic.
- Increase the % of MHR and duration of aerobic activity.
- Increase the amount of time spent outdoors hiking and backpacking.
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Week 3 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
50 min Cardio @ 75% Avg MHRRun, Bike, Swim 10 min walk |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
75 min stairs @ 75% Avg MHR |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
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4 sets of following: Squats (15) Step ups front (40) Step ups side Left and right (40) Step downs (40) Push Ups (10) Crunches (50) Plank (60 seconds) Mountain climbers (40) |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr 15 min of stairs with 15-20 lb pack. Aim for 1800 steps up and 1800 steps down. |
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Balance exercises |
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Friday |
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Rest Day |
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Saturday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
Walk/Run 50% alternating for 1.5 hrs or Hike 3-5hrs with 15-20lb Pack or Snowshoe 1.5-2hrs |
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Sunday |
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Rest Day: Read up on trip, equipment, and skills |
Week 4:
- Emphasis on interval training and endurance.
- Increase the % of MHR and duration of aerobic activity.
- Increase the amount of time spent outdoors hiking and backpacking.
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Week 4 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr 30 min Cardio @ 65% Avg MHR Run, Bike, Swim |
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Tuesday |
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Rest Day |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
4 mile run alternating between 70MHR and 80MHR every mile. Aim for 10 minute miles or faster. |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr Cardio @ 75% Avg MHRRun, Bike, Swim |
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Friday |
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20 min stairs @ 80% Avg MHR |
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Saturday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
5 hr hike with 15-25 lb pack. 3000-4000 ft of elevation gain. |
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Sunday |
15 min stretching in the morning |
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Balance exercises |
Week 5:
- Emphasis on interval training and endurance.
- Increase the % of MHR and duration of aerobic activity.
- Increase the amount of time spent outdoors hiking and backpacking with a pack.
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Week 5 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr Cardio @ 85% Avg MHRRun, Bike, Swim |
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Tuesday |
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Weight training your pick. |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
45 min cardio @ 85% MHR run, Bike, Swim |
4 sets of following: Squats (20) Step ups front (50) Step ups side Left and right (50) Step downs (50) Push Ups (10) Pull ups (5-10) Crunches (70) Plank (60 seconds) Mountain climbers (50) |
Strengthtraining can be substituted with 45 min of Yoga |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr 15 min Cardio @ 75%MHR Run, Bike, Swim |
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Friday |
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30 min stairs @ 85% Avg MHR |
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Saturday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
5 hr hike with 15-35 lb pack. 2000 ft of elevation gain. |
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If no access to hiking substitute: 1 hr 30 min of stairs with 15-25 lb pack. Aim for 1500 steps up and down. Take frequent but short breaks and drink plenty of water. |
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Sunday |
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5 hr hike with 15-35 lb pack. 2000 ft of elevation gain |
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If no access to hiking substitute: 1 hr 30 min of stairs with 15-25 lb pack. Aim for 1500 steps up and down. Take frequent but short breaks and drink plenty of water. |
Week 6:
- Increase the duration of aerobic activity.
- Increase the amount of elevation gain hiking and backpacking with a pack.
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Week 6 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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Rest from weekend |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
50 min stairs @ 70% Avg MHR |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr 15 min Cardio @ 75%MHR Run, Bike, Swim |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
90 min walk |
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Balance exercises |
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Friday |
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Rest |
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Saturday |
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4-6 mile hike with 35-45 lb pack. Aim for 3500-4500 feet of elevation gain. |
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Sunday |
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Rest- Practice knots |
Week 7:
- Add Yoga and Weight training
- Increase the number of sets and amount of reps on strength training.
- Hike multiple days in a row with a heavy pack.
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Week 7 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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Yoga or Weight training |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
60 min stairs @ 70% Avg MHR |
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Balance exercises |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
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4 sets of following: Squats (30) Step ups front (100) Step ups side Left and right (100) Step downs (100) Push Ups (25) Pull ups (as many as you can do) Crunches (100) Plank (60 seconds hold) Mountain climbers (70) |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
90 min walk |
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Friday |
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Rest |
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Saturday |
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Hike and camp at least 2 mile hike with full pack. Preferably 3-4 miles. |
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Sunday |
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2 mile day hike from camp with day pack. Return to camp and hike out with full pack. If doing a loop substitute full pack for day pack. |
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Week 8:
- Easy week to guard against burnout.
- Introduction on walking longer distance and duration.
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Week 8 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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Rest from weekend |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
60 min Cardio @ 85% Avg MHR |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
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4 sets of following: Squats (30) Step ups front (100) Step ups side Left and right (100) Step downs (100) Push Ups (25) Pull ups (as many as you can do) Crunches (100) Plank (60 seconds hold) Mountain climbers (70) |
Balance exercises |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
2-2.5 hour walk |
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Friday |
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60 min Cardio @ 85% Avg MHR |
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Saturday |
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Rest |
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Sunday |
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Rest |
Week 9:
- Building endurance and intensity of Aerobic activity
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Week 9 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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60-80 min Cardio @ 85% Avg MHR |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
20 min Cardio @ 85% Avg MHR |
3 sets of following: Squats (30) Step ups front (100) Step ups side Left and right (100) Step downs (100) Push Ups (25) Pull ups (as many as you can do) Crunches (100) Plank (60 seconds hold) Mountain climbers (70) |
Feel free to switch up the order of cardio and strength training. One day doing Cardio first and the next time doing strength first. |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
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Rest |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
30 min aerobic activity at 85% MHR. |
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Friday |
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6-8 mile run aim for a 10 minute pace. |
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Saturday |
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Rest |
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Sunday |
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45 min cardio at 85% of MHR. |
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Week 10:
- Test week to see if you can manage a 5000ft elevation gain 2 days in a row. Similar to climbing 1 day on Mt. Rainier.
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Week 10 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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Rest |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
60 min stairs @ 75% Avg MHR |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
1 hr 45 min Cardio @ 70%MHR Run, Bike, Swim |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
2- 2.5 hr brisk walk. |
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Friday |
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Rest |
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Saturday |
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Hike with about 5000 feet of elevation gain, carrying a 55-60 lb pack. |
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Wight pack with water or small rocks for weight. |
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Sunday |
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Hike with about 5000 feet of elevation gain. 20 lb pack. |
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Repeat the same hike as yesterday if your area doesn’t have enough mountains or trails. Urban users can climb stairs as a substitute for trail |
Week 11:
- Rest from climb/hike from last weekend.
- Continue to gain endurance and aerobic intensity.
- Taper off during end of week to maintain fitness.
- Shop for gear, practice knots and skills.
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Week 11 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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30 min walk |
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Rest from weekend |
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Tuesday |
20 min stretch and warm up |
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Rest |
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Wednesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
45 min Cardio @ 75% MHR Run, Bike, Swim |
3 sets of following: Squats (30) Step ups front (100) Step ups side Left and right (100) Step downs (100) Push Ups (25) Pull ups (as many as you can do) Crunches (100) Plank (60 seconds hold) Mountain climbers (70) |
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Thursday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
60 min cardio at 75-85% of MHR run, bike, swim, etc… |
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Friday |
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60 min cardio at 75-85% of MHR run, bike, swim, etc… |
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Saturday |
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90 minute walk |
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Sunday |
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Rest |
Week 12:
- Reduce intensity to prevent injury.
- Rest at least 2 days before climb.
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Week 12 |
Warm Up |
Aerobic |
Strength |
Notes |
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Monday |
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90 min cardio at 70-75% MHR run, bike, swim, etc… |
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Tuesday |
10 min stretch and warm up |
45 min stairs @ 75% Avg MHR |
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Wednesday |
20 min stretch and warm up |
30 minute walk |
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Rest, Stay well hydrated, Practice putting on gear, packing, etc… |
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Thursday |
20 min stretch and warm up |
30 minute walk |
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Rest, Stay well hydrated, Practice putting on gear, packing, etc… |
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Weekend of Climb! Climb High, Climb Safe! |
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Free Training plans:
Hiking and Backpacking
6 week beginner plan
General Mountaineering:
Intermediate Plan 12 weeks
Mt. Rainier 12 week plan:
8 Month Mountaineering Training & Fitness Plan
Meal Plans:
Backpacking and Climbing Meal Plans
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